How to choose the thickness of eyelashes for extensions - secrets of a lash maker

Thickness of eyelashes for extensions

When talking about the thickness of eyelashes for extensions, you need to understand that we are talking about the thickness of the directly extended eyelashes, and not natural ones. Their thickness varies from 0.03mm to 0.30mm. Masters divide all artificial eyelashes into 4 groups depending on their diameter.

Ultra-thin eyelashes . Ultra-thin eyelashes are usually considered to be those whose thickness is 0.03mm, 0.05mm, 0.06mm, 0.07mm. Artificial hairs of this diameter are soft and elastic, creating a natural effect. Their use is appropriate for both classic and volumetric extensions (up to 7D).

Thin eyelashes. This category includes hairs with a thickness of 0.10mm, 0.12mm and 0.15mm. Eyelashes with a thickness of 0.10 mm and 0.12 mm are often used if the client’s natural eyelashes are thin and sparse. This artificial material is sufficiently soft and elastic and looks natural. Eyelashes with a thickness of 0.15 mm create the effect of applied mascara. They are perfect for those girls who want to save time on applying makeup.

Thick eyelashes. This group includes hairs with a diameter of 0.18 mm and 0.20 mm. They have a more rigid structure than the previous 2 types. Most often they are used for classic and 2D extensions. Thanks to the use of these materials, you can add expressiveness and sensuality to your look. It should be borne in mind that the use of thick eyelashes for extensions is only permissible if the client’s natural eyelashes are healthy and strong. Otherwise, the effect of the procedure may be negative - a too unnatural and sloppy appearance, as well as a shorter period of wearing eyelash extensions before correction. Moreover, if you apply thick eyelash extensions to your natural thin and brittle eyelashes, they may simply begin to fall out.

Ultra thick eyelashes. This group includes artificial eyelashes 0.25mm and 0.30mm thick. Often, using eyelashes of this thickness for extensions is appropriate when preparing for special events in the fashion industry. Their everyday wear can cause a lot of inconvenience, which is directly due to the thickness of the eyelashes, as well as their increased rigidity. They can prick, bend, etc. Extended ultra-thick eyelashes do not look natural, but very impressive and shocking. It is worth noting that prolonged wear of such artificial hairs can lead to the loss of your own eyelashes, even if they are absolutely healthy and not brittle. Another advantage of ultra-thick eyelashes is the speed of the extension procedure.

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This division of artificial eyelashes by thickness is used by masters - in communication with each other or in choosing the material. However, many girls are much more accustomed to distinguishing eyelashes by thickness based on the following names:

• "mink";
• "silk";
• "columns";
• "sable".

These words in no way characterize the material from which the hairs are made, but only their diameter. Mink and silk eyelashes are considered ultra-thin. “Column” is for thin ones, and “sable” is for thick ones. It is worth noting that all eyelash extensions are made from synthetic hypoallergenic materials.

Choosing the optimal thickness of eyelashes for extensions

Before deciding on the choice of eyelash thickness for eyelash extensions, you need to decide on the desired result of the procedure, the condition of your own eyelashes, and also consult with a specialist.

The final decision on choosing the thickness of eyelashes for extensions is still made by the specialist. In this case, many factors are taken into account: the technique of carrying out the extension procedure, the features of the client’s appearance, the condition of her natural eyelashes, as well as the desired result. The universal thickness of artificial hairs is 0.10-0.15 mm. Often, this thickness is suitable for almost all girls, helping to emphasize the shape of the eyes, making the look more expressive, and also, if the procedure is carried out correctly, creating the effect of “lined eyes”, which allows you to avoid applying makeup while wearing eyelash extensions.

There are several generally accepted rules that apply when choosing the thickness of eyelashes for extensions:

1 rule

If the client’s natural eyelashes are weakened, prone to brittleness and loss, then the optimal choice of material for extensions will be hairs with a diameter of no more than 0.1 mm. It is worth noting that after extensions, the eyelashes will become more voluminous and fluffy, however, they may need to be tinted to create a bright accent on the eyes.

Rule 2

If the client wishes to give up makeup and replace it with eyelash extensions, preference should be given to hairs whose thickness is 0.15 mm. In this case, the eyelashes will not require the application of mascara, but there will be no bright emphasis on the eyes in the makeup.

Rule 3

To create an emphasis on the eyes with eyelash extensions, artificial hairs 0.20 mm thick are used. It is worth noting that this eyelash thickness is most in demand among girls who prefer eyelash extensions to daily makeup application. Masters note that artificial hairs with a thickness of 0.20 mm have a long wear time and are comfortable.

Rule 4

When creating festive looks, experts recommend using artificial eyelashes to increase diameters of 0.25-0.30 mm. They are not suitable for long-term wear, but will perfectly complement the bright image of the owner at a gala event, filming a video, while participating in fashion shows, etc. It is to eyelashes of this thickness that it is most appropriate to attach rhinestones and other decorative elements that complement the image of their owner.

Rule 5

To obtain the most natural effect, artificial hairs should be selected so that they are identical in thickness to the client’s natural eyelashes. Therefore, experts recommend thick eyelash extensions only for those with thick and strong natural eyelashes.

What type is needed for classics, 2D and 3D

If the goal of extensions is to make it as less noticeable as possible, simply to avoid using decorative cosmetics, then ultra-fine or thin hairs with a diameter of no more than 0.07 mm would be a reasonable solution. They are attached one to each natural eyelash.

If classic extensions with a moderate bend are performed, when the eyelashes are sparse, thin and weak, choose hairs with a thickness of 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.10 mm. The result is as natural as possible, and for special cases you can increase the volume and length with mascara.

For 2D volume, combinations of eyelashes with a thickness of 0.05 to 0.1 and 0.15 mm are used. If the condition of your hairs allows, bundles are glued on. But more often they combine single eyelashes of different diameters - thinner and shorter along the inner corner of the eyelid, which will gradually thicken towards the outer edge.

To get lush and thick 3D eyelashes, select a material with thickness values ​​from 0.07 mm to 0.15 mm, usually bundles, if your eyelashes are strong and healthy. Or they attach one piece to each natural one, three artificial ones. Good masters so skillfully combine material with various parameters that even 3D extensions do not look vulgar, but simply like well-painted, naturally long, thick eyelashes.

How to wash your face with eyelash extensions - simple rules on what you should protect your eyes from and what to do if false eyelashes get wet. The answers are in the article at the link.

The difference between eyelashes of different thicknesses

Speaking about the differences between eyelashes of different thicknesses, it is customary to use gradations into “mink”, “silk” and “sable”. It is worth noting that different masters may mean slightly different things, but the essence remains generally accepted.

Artificial hairs called “mink” are light and thin (0.10-0.12mm). Visually, they are as thin, soft and shiny as mink fur. It is this type of eyelashes that is closest in texture to natural eyelashes, so extensions of such hairs look as natural as possible. “Mink” is suitable for all extension techniques – both classic and volumetric, up to 7D.

“Silk” is artificial eyelashes with a diameter of 0.15-0.18 mm. They have a smooth structure and glossy shine. This type of hair looks as natural as mink, but creates the effect of light makeup. When building “silk”, there is no need to tint eyelashes. These eyelashes are used for both classic and volumetric extensions, up to 3D.

Thicker eyelashes are “sable”. Despite their thickness (0.18-0.20mm), they have a high level of elasticity and softness. They don't break or bend. This type of artificial eyelashes for extension is excellent for classic and volumetric extensions - 2D, less often - 3D.

Important information!

Thus, the main difference between eyelashes of different thicknesses is their use in different extension techniques. It is also important to take into account the condition of the client’s natural eyelashes when choosing the thickness of artificial hair extensions in order to avoid a sloppy result and negative consequences of the procedure.

Types of eyelash curls

Artificial eyelashes can have different types of curl - bend. To create different types of curls, special shapes are used, close to round, which are heated to high temperatures. The artificial hairs on these forms acquire a certain bend.

In order to achieve various visual effects using extensions, the specialist must know the intricacies of working with the curves of eyelashes. The shape of the curl is usually denoted by Latin letters. The main types of eyelash curls are: J, B, C, D, CC or D+, L and L+.

1. Curl J (or I)
   - a very weak curl, the eyelashes are almost straight. Sometimes used in European countries to extend long but sparse eyelashes to fill gaps without looking too fussy. Not popular in our country.
2. Bend B
   is closest to natural. With the help of such eyelashes you can add volume, but without the curling effect. Therefore, this type of bending is also not popular with either craftsmen or clients.
3. Bend C
   is a middle option between very weak (J, B) and strong bend (from D). This type of bend looks natural and natural, but at the same time attractive. C curl lashes are smooth and long lasting. This is one of the most popular types of eyelash curling for extensions.
4. The D curve
   creates a more pronounced, glamorous curling effect and allows you to visually correct deep and far-set eyes and drooping eyelids. Not recommended for older women, as it creates additional shading of the eyelid.
5. The CC curl
   (some manufacturers call it D+) creates the effect of a more rounded curl with lifting from the very root of the eyelash, making the look open and open. Allows you to visually correct deep-set eyes.
6. L curve
   - eyelashes have a straight base with a steep curl at some distance from the root. This type of curve is ideal for Asian eye shapes. Allows you to visually correct deep-set eyes and drooping eyelids, but may look bad on slightly convex eyes. The L curve works well for clients who wear glasses.
7. The L+ bend
   in its geometry is the L and D bends together: the eyelashes have a straight base with a smoother and curled curl at some distance from the root. This type of curve is also suitable for Asian eye shapes. Allows you to visually correct deep and far-set eyes and drooping eyelids. May look bad on eyes with a slightly convex shape.

Why is it important to consider the thickness of eyelashes for extensions?

When preparing for any cosmetic and cosmetology procedure, it is very important to take into account every little detail so that the result is the desired one and does not harm the health and appearance of the client. This also applies to choosing the thickness of eyelashes for extensions.

Incorrectly selected thickness of artificial extension material can lead to fragility and even loss of the client’s natural eyelashes. For example, if a girl’s natural eyelashes are thin and prone to brittleness, in no case should you choose thick hairs for extensions.

Speaking of appearance, incorrectly chosen thickness of eyelashes can make the image look sloppy and will not look natural. Moreover, if the selection is incorrect, the lifespan of eyelash extensions will be significantly reduced; they can fall out in bunches, creating bald spots.

Eyelash extensions of different thicknesses are designed for use in different extension techniques. So, eyelashes that are too thick are not suitable for volumetric extensions, for example, 5D or 7D.

Popular eyelash curls and effect

Curving eyelash extensions can create different eye effects.

Common ones are:

1. Natural effect. It is created by eyelash extension of small length hairs (no more than 2-3 mm longer than natural eyelashes). In this way, you can emphasize the natural beauty of the eyes without raising suspicions that the eyelashes are unnatural. However, it will not be possible to correct the shape in this case. Most often performed with eyelashes with J, B, C – curves.
2. Fox effect. It is created by smoothly increasing the length of the hairs from the inner corner of the eye to the outer. The look becomes mysterious and attractive. Performed with eyelashes with M, L, L+ curves.
3. Squirrel effect. It is achieved by smoothly but slightly increasing the length of the eyelashes on 2/3 of the eye (starting from the inner corner) and abruptly transitioning to a longer length on the outer corner of the eye. The extension process is similar to the fox effect, but the difference in length makes the look bright, extraordinary and exciting. Performed with eyelashes with B, C, D, L – curves.
4. Ray effect. It is obtained by alternating several lengths during the extension process. As a result, the eyes begin to “shine” like the sun. The gaze becomes open. Performed with eyelashes with C, D, M, L+ curves.
5. Baby doll effect. Achieved through the process of volumetric hair extensions of the same length (at least 12 mm). The effect is not always comfortable to wear, since the natural eyelashes at the inner corner of the eye are thin and short. It is difficult for them to withstand the weight and length of artificial eyelashes. In most cases, this extension option is chosen by young girls. He is able to add romance and naivety to the image, making him look younger. On adult women, a baby doll looks ridiculous and comical. It is performed with eyelashes with D, M, U, L+ curves.
6. Millennium effect. When doing extensions, the master, at the client’s request, uses rhinestones, feathers or colored hairs. The eyes become bright, defiant, noticeable. Suitable for brave girls or evening outings. Performed with eyelashes with any curve.

Features of ultra-thin eyelashes for extensions

Ultra-thin eyelashes are called eyelashes whose thickness ranges from 0.03mm to 0.07mm. It is this diameter of artificial hairs that allows the extension procedure to be performed even on the thinnest, most brittle and weakened natural eyelashes.

It is ultra-thin eyelashes that have the highest elasticity and softness, making them most visually similar to natural ones. Building up such material allows you to add expressiveness and sensuality to your look without weighing it down.

Ultra-thin eyelashes have a number of advantages:

• their use is possible in any of the extension techniques, which indicates their versatility;
• due to their structure, ultra-thin eyelashes have the most natural appearance;
• with volumetric extensions, from 2D to 7D, with such hairs, the effect of “doll eyes” is not created;
• The duration of wearing ultra-thin eyelashes is slightly longer than thick ones;
• do not damage natural eyelashes and do not weigh them down.

Important information!

It is worth noting that the procedure for ultra-thin eyelash extensions should be carried out exclusively by a professional. At home, it is almost impossible to perform extensions with such material. It is also very important to use high-quality tweezers to carry out the procedure with ultra-fine hairs.

Useful tips for choosing

When deciding what is best for eyelash extensions, it is worth knowing the features of different types of materials. Most salons offer hair extensions made from artificial materials, since synthetic ones can cause allergies. Conventional names, for example, “silk” or “mink” do not always mean that the hairs have this composition.

The hardness, thickness and even weight of each hair depends on the material.

Many ladies wonder what is better - eyelash extensions or false eyelashes.

Each of the procedures has its pros and cons:

1. Extension requires a lot of time, but at the same time it allows you to maintain the effect for 3-4 weeks (and with regular correction - for several months). However, the price of this procedure is higher. It is also important to choose the right hairs and glue, so it’s difficult to do without going to a salon.
2. False eyelashes are inexpensive and can be purchased at any cosmetic store . The gluing procedure does not require special skills and will not take much time, so you can do it yourself.

Hair design may vary

Selection of extension methods

There are 2 main methods of eyelash extensions:

• ciliary;
• fascicular

The lash method of eyelash extension involves processing each individual artificial hair and attaching it. This method requires much more labor and time than the beam method.

When performing extensions using the bundle method, several artificial eyelashes are collected into a bundle, fastened together, carefully combed to avoid tangling, and attached to the natural eyelashes.

It is also necessary to take into account that there are several types of extensions depending on the number of eyelashes used in the procedure:

incomplete volume - in this case, the eyelashes are attached either only to the outer corner of the upper eyelid, or throughout the entire eyelid, but after 1 (relative to the native ones). This type of extension gives the most natural result. However, it is worth considering that such eyelash extensions require tinting when creating makeup;

full volume is a standard version of classic extensions. In this case, 1 artificial hair is attached to each natural eyelash of the client;

double volume - this is what 2D and 3D extensions are called . This type involves attaching 2 or 3 artificial eyelashes to 1 natural one. The effect of this extension is a chic volume and a deep, expressive look;

Hollywood volume involves attaching 5-10 artificial hairs to 1 natural eyelash of the client. This type of extension is more often used in preparation for any special events, filming, fashion shows, etc. Due to this volume, the duration of wear is significantly reduced.

In order to correctly select the method and type of eyelash extension, you should decide on the desired result and the condition of the client’s natural eyelashes. The type of appearance of the girl who decided to undergo this procedure also plays a big role.

Important information!

To ensure that eyelash extensions do not look vulgar and sloppy, and that your natural eyelashes do not break after removing eyelash extensions, you need to individually consult with an eyelash extension professional who will help you decide on the choice of technique, type, volume, length of eyelashes, as well as their thickness.

To carry out the procedure for the first time, classic full-volume eyelash extensions with ultra-thin eyelashes are considered optimal. It looks the most natural and does not damage the client’s natural eyelashes. But to participate in fashion industry events, you can give preference to bundle extensions, Hollywood volume and thick eyelashes - this makes it possible to additionally decorate the eyelashes with rhinestones, etc.

Ultra-thin eyelash extensions

The procedure for extending ultra-thin eyelashes requires accuracy, scrupulousness, and attentiveness of the specialist during work. It is very important to follow the recommendations of the artificial hair manufacturer. And for longer wear and maintaining the attractive appearance of eyelash extensions, you must follow the rules for caring for eyelash extensions throughout the entire period of wear.

Basic recommendations from professionals for ultra-thin eyelash extensions to achieve the most attractive results:

• ultra-thin eyelashes tend to get tangled, so during the process of extensions, you should carefully separate the hairs from each other and comb them. Particular attention should be paid to their separation when forming bundles;
• When working, you should use high-quality tweezers, with ends of equal length that close tightly without much effort. This will ensure the best fixation and will greatly simplify working with ultra-thin eyelashes.

The algorithm for extending ultra-thin eyelashes is practically no different from the sequence of the procedure with hairs of a different thickness.

1 step

First of all, the upper and lower eyelashes are separated using special tape and treated with a primer (degreased).

Step 2

While the primer dries, the master has time to prepare all the materials and lay them out, ensuring the convenience of his work.

Step 3

A small amount of special glue is squeezed onto the plastic surface.

Step 4

Using special tweezers, the ends of which are the same length, grab 1 artificial eyelash or several (depending on the chosen type of extension) and dip it into the adhesive composition with a pulling motion.

Step 5

Next, you need to separate one natural eyelash from the rest and attach an ultra-thin artificial eyelash or a bunch of them to it.

Step 6

The previous 2 stages are repeated until the desired result is achieved (the entire surface of the eyelash row or part of it is filled, depending on the type of extension). Professionals advise starting the procedure by filling the outer corner of the eyelash row, then moving to the inner corner and finally filling the middle part.

Step 7

The next 5-7 minutes will take the glue to dry, after which the eyelash extensions need to be combed with a special comb-brush.

Step 8

If there is no need to correct defects, you can get rid of the special tape on the client’s eyelids, which is the final stage of the procedure.

Important information!

Important! Within 24 hours after the extension procedure, you should not wet the artificial hairs. This is the time it takes for the glue to fully polymerize. During the entire period of wearing eyelash extensions, you should not rub your eyes, visit baths and saunas, or sleep with your face in the pillow.

Manufacturers of eyelash extensions

Currently, many companies are engaged in the production of eyelash extensions. However, as in any other area, this market has its leaders who, over many years of work, have established themselves as responsible manufacturers. Their extension materials regularly undergo various quality tests; they are non-allergenic and non-toxic, which is extremely important when using them.

TOP 5 companies producing eyelash extensions:

Perfect Silk Lashes is a Korean company whose name is known to international eyelash extension specialists. This brand produces high-quality eyelashes for extensions - soft, elastic, visually indistinguishable from natural ones. It is worth noting that the artificial hairs of this company have a special shape - they are thickened at the base and pointed at the top. Also, many specialists claim that when using an adhesive base from the same manufacturer with these eyelashes, the duration of wearing eyelash extensions increases to 2-3 months.

Irisk Professional rightfully occupies the next level of the rating. The materials produced by this company are used by the world's best eyelash extension specialists, incl. while participating in international eyelash extension competitions. The Irisk Professional company produces a huge range of extension materials, which also includes coated eyelashes, rhinestones, etc. The products of this company belong to the professional line of materials.

The South Korean company Dolce Vita has won the trust of craftsmen and customers around the world. Before reaching the consumer, its products must undergo many tests for hypoallergenicity, which is extremely important in this area. Artificial hairs produced by Dolce Vita are characterized by a high level of elasticity and strength.

MACY is a godsend for craftsmen who love experiments. This company offers the widest selection of artificial eyelashes - different widths, lengths and curls. Moreover, MACY offers masters a mix - sets with eyelashes of different lengths, which allows professionals to show their imagination and creativity while working. All products are hypoallergenic, the hairs are soft, light and elastic. Materials from this manufacturer are easy to work with not only for professionals, but also for beginners in the field of eyelash extensions.

The American company 3D Beauty International is the creator of 3D eyelash extension technology. Naturally, the materials produced by this company are excellent for volumetric extensions. Soft and elastic eyelashes, as close as possible to natural ones in appearance, have a fairly long wear life if the extension procedure is carried out correctly.

Important information!

Important! When choosing materials for extensions, you should give preference to those brands that already have positive reviews from artists and clients. You should not save on artificial eyelashes, this can lead to negative results - both unsatisfactory appearance and breakage/loss of natural eyelashes.

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Ekaterina Prudnikova

Makeup artist. Stylist. Author in Your Dreams

I also practiced aesthetic cosmetology! Now I am doing eyelash extensions, conducting master classes, teaching!

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